Black Sheep Restaurants taps French bistro chic with Jean-Pierre - review

Hong Kong’s ubiquitous restaurant group celebrates another launch as Jean-Pierre opens its doors in Sheung Wan. Gayatri Bhaumik finds out if it’s worth the hype

Black Sheep Restaurants' Jean-Pierre review - dramatic interiors conjure elegant Art Deco style

The heavy-hitting hospitality veteran that is Black Sheep Restaurants recently opened Jean-Pierre on Bridges Street in the space formerly occupied by Oolaa. Big boots to fill, but Jean-Pierre has so far been fully booked for weeks thanks to the positive buzz it’s garnered. Still, I try to leave any expectations at the door as I walk in on a Thursday night.

Immediately, visitors are transported to another time and place. Specifically, the lively bistros of Paris’ golden age. The restaurant pays homage to French culture, dining and joie de vivre and is named for founder Marc Hofmann’s father, who, according to Hofmann, was the ultimate host and bon vivant.

In designing the space, Melissa Collinson masterfully draws on Art Deco cues paired with contemporary comfort, where dark mahogany and red velvet drapery infuse warmth and sensuality everywhere from the elegant cocktail bar to the main dining room. Perhaps the nicest touch is the soundtrack of French (or French-dubbed) pop, which our French dining companion says makes her want to get up and dance on the tables à la certain raucous restaurants in Paris. Job done, then, at least on the look and feel of Jean-Pierre.

Our evening begins on the spacious open-air terrace by the bar, where we sip on deliciously potent cornichon martinis as dusk begins to fall. Once the rest of our party arrives, we head back into the dining room. This is a theatrical space filled with dramatic touches and the unparalleled prima donna here is La Table de Jean-Pierre, the big circular dining table that takes centre stage on a raised platform. It’s also where we’re seated for dinner. It’s a great spot for those who seek the spotlight, though somewhat cringeworthy for those who prefer a little anonymity.

Still, you almost forget that all eyes are on you once the food begins to arrive – along with well-chosen wine pairings from head sommeliers Jean-Baptiste Copot and Nicolas Eyquem.

To whet the appetite, meals at Jean-Pierre begin with servings of gougères, charcuterie, and pickles – and champagne, naturally. 

What follows is an upscale reinterpretation of classic Parisian bistro fare. From the kitchen, chef John Troupis dishes up incredibly indulgent, satisfying renditions of steak tartare, oeuf mimosa, escargots de Bourgogne, and pâté de foie de volaille – and that’s just to start.

For our ‘plats’ we share the poulet de Simone – a classic roasted chicken using Hong Kong’s famous three yellow chicken, accompanied by a flavourful stuffing of mushrooms, tarragon, and spinach, a simple yet elegant sole meunière, and a well-cooked entrecôte frites. On the side? Haricots verts almondine (green beans with slivered almonds), ‘Pierre Koffmann’ frites, and gratin dauphinois, naturellement.

Of course, this wouldn’t be a truly decadent bistro meal without finishing with some equally sinful desserts. Deciding to divide and conquer once again, we sample the profiteroles au chocolat, crème caramel, mousse au chocolat, and – there seems to be a trend for this in Hong Kong at the moment – a creamy tarte de Saint-Tropez.

We roll out of the restaurant thoroughly replete and in positive spirits. Because isn’t that what hearty, classic cooking and good company is all about? It’s no wonder Hong Kong’s gourmands are clamouring to indulge at Jean-Pierre.

Jean-Pierre, 9 Bridges Street, Central; +852 2154 6101.