Il Presidente's where the party's at - review

Hong Kong's latest New York Italian dining spot opened its doors earlier this autumn. Ifat Kafry Hindes headed over for a media tasting

Il Presidente review - The team gears up for another fun night

On a wet night, with the rain falling moodily over Central and the city lights bouncing off the glistening pavements, climbing the preserved old granite steps of Duddell Street and into Il Presidente was like slipping into a decadent (and dry) parallel universe. Push through the distinctive sunset-orange doors and the bustle of Hong Kong melts away, replaced by the glamour of a 1980s New York Italian - stylish, fun and overflowing with personality.

From the tongue-in-cheek art pieces on the walls to the mirrored ceilings, the amber glow and the deep maroon velvet booths, every detail entwines to create a space that’s equal parts playful and elegant. For the next few hours, we were so happy to just sink into the booth, tune out the rain, and soak it all up.

Il Presidente's signature 'truffle egg'

As for the food, it’s pure comfort; big on flavour and made to share. It was a fun start with the restaurant’s signature L’Uovo al Tartufo (truffle egg) placed before me; the rich and velvety potato truffle foam was deliciously warm and served inside the eggshell. Further entrées included golden and crisp Arancini di Mare packed with tender, flavourful seafood, while the Crudo di Ricola’s fresh yellowtail was paired with a zingy salsa and a touch of smoky eggplant.

Meatier plates included the Carpaccio di Manzo, a melt-in-your-mouth wagyu carpaccio finished with aged balsamic, crunchy toasted hazelnuts and shaved cheese.

Gelato is churned tableside and scooped straight to your dish

My pasta dishes consisted of Cannelloni del Presidente, a giant, show stopping baked cannelloni stuffed with ricotta and spinach, bubbling under melted cheese and sweet tomato sauce - pure, cosy nostalgia. Alternatively, the Tagliolini agli Scampi e Limone was presented as delicate ribbons of homemade pasta tossed with sweet langoustines and a light, glossy lemon sauce adding a tasty twist.

Costoletta alla Valdostana with crushed potatoes was a real indulgence. A giant, crisp-breaded veal chop was stuffed with gooey Fontina cheese and smoky ham, served with the comforting carbs.

Full you may be, but don’t miss the fun and photogenic puds. The Gelato al Tavolo is churned right at your table, fresh fior di latte gelato whipped into soft, fluffy peaks and scooped straight to your dish. There’s also a predictable (and delish) tiramisù and the Bonèt al Cioccolato provides a luscious, Piedmontese chocolate pudding that’s rich and satisfying without being too heavy.

Il Presidente, Shop M2, 13 Duddell Street, Central (head up the Duddell Street granite steps); 5443 0908.